House 12 · Upper East & Upper West Regions

Upper East & Upper West

Painted houses, basket weavers and the defence walls of Gwollu Illustration

Upper East & Upper WestUpper East & Upper West Regions, Ghana
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From the castle walls at Elmina to the painted walls of Sirigu

Near the border with Burkina Faso the land opens into dry savannah dotted with baobabs and family compounds of mud and thatch. At Sirigu the women paint the walls of their houses in red, black and white earth; their cooperative runs a gallery and a guesthouse where you can stay the night.

Bolgatanga is known for its straw baskets, woven by hand in the villages around. At Paga, crocodiles in the village ponds are held sacred, and Pikworo nearby is a former slave camp with a guide from the community. In the Upper West, the Wechiau sanctuary protects hippos on the Black Volta, and the old defence walls of Gwollu recall the years of slave raids. (to verify) (to verify) (to verify) (to verify)

Illustration From the castle walls at Elmina to the painted walls of Sirigu: no verified photograph yet.
Illustration Why go: no verified photograph yet.

Why go

This is the far end of the board, and the part of Ghana fewest visitors see. It completes the heritage path inland, and it is where the country's makers are most visible in daily life.

Illustration Plan Upper East & Upper West into your journey: no verified photograph yet.

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Plan Upper East & Upper West into your journey

  • A specialist who writes back by hand
  • Days ordered one house at a time
  • Time left free after the heavy days

What to see and do in Upper East & Upper West

Good to know

Best time to go

November to February, before the heat of March and April. The wet season runs roughly May to October. (to verify)

Usually driest here: January, February, November, December. See when to go.

How long to stay

Two or three nights; more with the Upper West.

Suggested on the planner: 2–3 nights.

Getting there

About three hours by road north of Tamale. Some routes fly back to Accra from Tamale or Wa. (to verify) (to verify)

Where you will stay

The SWOPA guesthouse at Sirigu (simple, memorable) and practical hotels in Bolgatanga and Wa.

On our list for this region (to be confirmed): SWOPA guesthouse, Sirigu. See stays.

Best for

Architecture and craft, Heritage path inland, Village stays, Travellers who have seen the south.

Routes through here

“Sirigu's walls are the women's own art. We visit to see them, not to copy them.”

How we plan

Nearby houses

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